Best Western Plus, Hotel des Francs
Soissons,
France
70s F, sunny
First, a disclaimer that I should have said
before: This
blog is really only a draft as I am writing it in the evening after each long day
of traveling. Plus, despite the fact that I have read many books on World War
I, I am not anywhere near an expert. I am keeping a daily field journal and try to write down
ideas, as well as what I see and hear. I may get facts construed for a variety
of reasons. I appreciate any corrections or clarifications!
Bright and
early at 7:35 a.m. our tour of 39 souls
parted for the biggest day yet. Everyone appreciates Virginia and her stories
about her dad. As we drove toward our first stop, toward the action of the
First Division, Mike Hanlon set the scene and Virginia spoke about how her dad
carried his New Testament Bible and scapular with him and kept a diary. She has
compiled his diary as I mentioned a few days ago. He wrote of how important
carrier pigeons were for communication, as well as how much he appreciated the
YMCA, the Red Cross, and the Salvation Army, all entities that supported the
American effort during the Great War.
First Division Monument
Her dad
spoke of a gruesome night (as they marched toward the engagement), marching for
hours in the rain, marching at night, but the advantage was “Fritz could not
see us.” The area where we are driving, the Second Battle of the Marne, was
where her dad spent five days in intense fighting, cannons blazing away, great
was the roar. Rations were carried on their back, but the kitchen brought warm
food at night. Virginia’s father survived the war, but suffered from exposure
to gas and died young.
These
stories of our family members help all of us experience what was going on at
the time.
The Second Battle of the Marne (15 July-6 August
1918)
The Second
Battle of the Marne was the last major German offensive on the Western Front
during the First World War. The attack failed when an Allied
counterattack, supported by several hundred tanks, overwhelmed the Germans on
their right flank, inflicting severe casualties. The German defeat marked the
start of the relentless Allied advance which
culminated in the Armistice with Germany about
100 days later.
The Marne River
Aisne-Marne American Cemetery
Missing in Action: 1,060 men. At the Aisne-Marne American
Cemetery I was struck by something the superintendent said. He asked us to
think of the violence that would create a situation where 1,060 bodies were
never found. In 2015 another American Cemetery Superintendent asked us to think
of each cross as a man and imagine that amount of men standing before us. At Aisne-Marne there are 2,289 headstones.
Over 2000 men standing before me. An overwhelming thought. In the Chapel, the 1060
names are inscribed of the men who are forever missing in action.
On the Monument, overlooking the entrance to Aisne-Marne American Cemetery
Rainbow Division at Croix Rouge Farm and the
Ourcq River
Cousins on
our tour, Gary and Tracy, along with Jose, are honoring their grandfather Paul who
served as an ambulance driver/litter carrier in the 167th with the
42nd Division. They spoke of how their grandmother died in 1986 and
when the family was cleaning out her home, they found a box. When they opened
it, they found their grandfather’s World War I papers, his dog tags, a small 48
star American flag, and other mementos. That was the starting point of their
Great War journey. Their story parallels mine, I found a box of Archie’s letters
and other artifacts in 1992 when my mother died. We had never spoken of her uncle,
who died when she was five years old. That discovery began my journey.
Since Gary
only met his grandfather when he was an infant, they had to learn from
other family members who remembered Paul as a dearly loved man.
As we
approached the monument at Croix Rouge Farm on the Ourcq River, Mike told us
more about the Rainbow Division, made up of men from all over the country,
hence diverse. Of the 42nd Division’s part in the Second Battle of
the Marne, the Germans called it the greatest artillery barrage in the war at
that time. The Allies thought the Germans were going to attack and capture
Paris and this was the offensive to stop them, beginning 15 July. Gary’s grandfather was part of this artillery barrage as an ambulance driver.
Gary also
spoke of how his grandfather had suffered from gas attacks, trench foot, and chilblains.
When Grandfather Paul saw the movie The Fighting 69th in
1939, he got emotional and cried according to a family member who knew him then. They attributed it to his days in France. Paul died in 1953, still suffering
from the effects of the gas from the war.
Since their
grandfather survived, the family wanted to honor the 42nd Division,
especially those who did not come home. They placed a beautiful bouquet of red
roses, red carnations, and red chrysanthemums on the statue. After a moment of
silence, another tour member read Rouge Bouquet, a poem written by
Joyce Kilmer, also of the 42nd Division. Just about two weeks later,
Kilmer was killed on the battlefield.
Monument dedicated to the 42nd Rainbow Division, Pieta-like in form,
with the Rouge Bouquet honoring that division
We enjoyed a
picnic lunch at Chateau de Fere, a 13th century castle in ruins, but
a lovely view. I cringe to think what would happen in Erie to such an historic
ruin.
Tim picnicking at Chateau de Fere
Chateau de Fere with moat
Oise-Marne American Cemetery
John spoke
again of his grandfather, Robert Brown, Field Artillery, 32nd
Division, as we were stopping at Oise-Aisne American Cemetery to honor one of
Robert’s friends who was killed near him during this same Second Battle of the
Marne. Even though he was in a supply
regiment, he and his unit were subjected to artillery. Robert’s friends were
500 yards away from him, and one was killed by heavy artillery, Harry LaBar. Later
John talked about how his grandfather and others had to march five days to
Chateau Thierry, pulling the caissons themselves, because they needed to spare
the animals.
John and his
wife Linda placed a beautiful bouquet of red gladiolus, and blue and white flowers
at the grave of Harry LaBar. Again, another tour mate read an anonymous poem
about saying goodbye to a friend who died at war. I was honored to witness both ceremonies
today.
Entrance to Oise-Aisne American Cemetery
Floral bouquet honoring Harry LaBar, 32nd Division
Charles J. Hoffsess, Pennsylvania 28th Division, 112th Infantry Regiment,
we honor you and your fallen comrades
Many soldiers
from the Pennsylvania 28th
Keystone Division are buried in this cemetery, including those from the 112th
Infantry Regiment. If they had not been repatriated, Russell Ward Silverthorn,
Robert F. Arnold, and Arthur Manness would have been buried here. For Ann S,
for Sandra F, for VFW Post #374 and Carole J.
Quentin Roosevelt Crash Site
A brief stop—Quentin
Roosevelt, one of the sons of Theodore Roosevelt, was killed in aerial combat not far from the
fountain monument.
Fountain honoring Quentin Roosevelt, son of Theodore Roosevelt
Coastal Artillery Command
An
interesting side note to today’s 2nd Battle of the Marne Tour was tour
mate Genevieve’s story about her father (b. 1892) who was a Boston Fusilier who
guarded the Boston Harbor with artillery. His unit was activated and sent to
France. That year the Boston harbor had frozen over and equipment had to be
slid over the ice. The unit, Coastal Artillery Command, shipped out on the
Mauritania in 1918. The Bostonians, skilled at using big artillery guns, were
not accustomed to the French ways, so the “CAC” became the “Clean All Cities”
unit in France. Besides cleaning up cities to their specs, they trained on 75s.
She remembered that he sang World War I songs to her, including “Mademoiselle
from Armentieres,” and that he talked about cooties. She found out that when he
returned to NYC, his unit was deloused 9-10 times before going home. He then went
to bed for six months. Later, her father was the Sanitation Inspector for the
City of Boston.
Her husband, Anson, spoke of his grandfather Ira who was in the National Guard from Rhode Island. Ira was training for combat in France when he had the mumps, causing hime to miss the ship. He was never able to catch up with his unit before the war ended. This family served in World War II, the Korean War, and Vietnam.
Her husband, Anson, spoke of his grandfather Ira who was in the National Guard from Rhode Island. Ira was training for combat in France when he had the mumps, causing hime to miss the ship. He was never able to catch up with his unit before the war ended. This family served in World War II, the Korean War, and Vietnam.
As we were driving over hills and valleys, Donna spoke of her grandfather Perry Foote from Minnesota who was sent to the 77th Division, 304th Field Artillery made up of mostly New York City boys. Because Perry and his country buddies could handle horses, they were ordered to the 77th Division. Donna said her grandfather was always grateful to the Salvation Army and their support of the men at the front. After the war, he bought a touring car and moved his family to the state of Washington. His sons served in World War II.
Pennsylvania Bridge at Fismes
One of today's special highlights was stopping at the Pennsylvania Bridge in Fismes. This site was very important to me because on our AEF tour in 2015 I knew my Uncle Roy was in the 112th Infantry, but for some reason I had not figured out that was in the 28th Division. Now I have read several books on the regiment and the division and my brother even gave me Uncle Roy’s doughboy helmet. Now I know more family members of others in the 112th.
One of today's special highlights was stopping at the Pennsylvania Bridge in Fismes. This site was very important to me because on our AEF tour in 2015 I knew my Uncle Roy was in the 112th Infantry, but for some reason I had not figured out that was in the 28th Division. Now I have read several books on the regiment and the division and my brother even gave me Uncle Roy’s doughboy helmet. Now I know more family members of others in the 112th.
I am so glad we stopped in Fismes, a small
commune in the Marne department in the Champagne-Ardennes region
of northeastern France. It is crossed by the Vesle River and linked
to the hamlet of Fismette by a memorial bridge that commemorates the sacrifices
made by the soldiers of the 28th Infantry Division (Keystone) who fought
to liberate the region during the First World War.
According to sources, the banks of the Vesle were the new
front: on the north were the German forces and to the south was the American
3rd Corps, which had relieved the 1st Army Corps. The first two days of the battle, the 32nd American Division
lost 2,000 men in its efforts to cross the Vesle River and reach Fismes. This
Division was relieved by the 28th Infantry Division, which would
come to be known as the Bloody Bucket Division. For a month, from August to September, 1918, the battle would
continue in the areas surrounding Fismes and Fismette.
I remember my dear Uncle Roy Hall suffered from shrapnel in his life all of his life. He did not let that stop him from living a full life. Always warm and caring, treasured his roses and showed them to all who passed by. Uncle Roy, I remember.
Uncle Roy Hall, back from the war.
He is holding my mother, Alma Florence Hall, born 10 April 1919. When she was born, the family named her Mary Jane, even though the family had told Roy he could name her.
When he returned, her name was changed! How I wish I could ask him about this!
Direction sign in the vicinity
Fismes in the background--note the terrain
The Pennsylvania Bridge, built to honor the 28th Division at Fismes/Fismette
The Battle of Fismes and Fismette is unique in the history of World War
I because of the extreme violence and street fighting that occurred, as well as
the presence of storm trooper attacks and flame throwers. All of this culminated
in the total destruction of Fismes (around 90%), more than in the
neighboring Reims. Over
the course of just a month, Fismes would be lost and won again five times by
the Allied forces.
In the month of August, the quarter of Fismette was lost and recaptured
5 times by the enemy.
Friendship between Fismes, France and Meadville, Pennsylvania
Meadville is 36 miles south of Erie.
Vesle River
TK’s Takes: Today he noticed a wild boar in one of the fields we passed.
To think that you walked where Russell walked. Amazing!
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