EXPLORING THE MEUSE ARGONNE BATTLEFIELDS AND MONUMENTS

Tuesday, 14 August 2018

Les Jardins du Mess  (https://www.hotelspaverdun.com/)

Verdun, France

74 F, sunny

Yesterday we were remembering the Battle for the St. Mihiel Salient. Today and tomorrow we cover the area of the Meuse Argonne Offensives, Phases I, II, and III. 

The Meuse-Argonne Offensive, also known as the Maas-Argonne Offensive and the Battle of the Argonne Forest, was a part of the final Allied offensive of World War I that stretched along the entire Western Front. It was fought from September 26, 1918, until the Armistice on November 11, a total of 47 days. The Meuse-Argonne Offensive was the largest in United States military history, involving 1.2 million American soldiers, and was one of a series of Allied attacks known as the Hundred Day Battle. There were 26,000 American soldiers killed and 120,000 wounded during this period.  

The Iron Harvest
As we passed the countryside, Mike mentioned that many areas are still contaminated from remaining shells of poisonous gas as the shell corrodes. Hundreds of thousands are still unexploded ordnance. Each Spring shells percolate up from the ground.

When we were on our 2015 tour we saw a newspaper headline stating that two teens were injured when they tried to handle a shell they found. We were told then that it will take 6 to 7 centuries for the shells to be cleaned up. Mike said there is a strict protocol for disarming and collecting the ordnance. According to the BBC, more than a billion shells were fired during the World War I, and as many as a third never exploded. In 1996, the French Interior Ministry estimated that 12 million shells still slumber in the soil near Verdun alone. The Iron Harvest, it is called.

Our first stop was Forges sur Meuse—Frank and Carol’s grandfather was here and we grabbed a quick photo.

A little later Mike stopped the bus at a sign for Dannevoux where the 80^th Division “got their job done.” We all remembered my Great Uncle Archie’s nephew and my cousin, Lynn C. Price, of the 80^th Division, 313^th Machine Gun Battalion.

Tim and Mary Jane at Dannevoux, France

Montfaucon was a key site in the Meuse Argonne Offensive (Meuse River/Argonne Forest), right in the middle of the sector. The Montfaucon Memorial is an American World War I memorial commemorating the victory of the American First Army in the Meuse Argonne offensive, September 26-November 11, 1918. It pays tribute to the previous heroic services of the Armies of France and the important battle front  upon which the memorial has been constructed." It was erected by the U.S. Government and is the largest of the American war memorials in Europe.

Montfaucon Memorial-7 miles south of the Meuse Argonne American Cemetery

near Verdun

A remaining pill box near Montfaucon--Danger!

80th Division honored-Lynn Price

90th Division honored-R. Archie Harvey

28th Division honored-Roy Hall, the Silverthorn Brothers, Robert Arnold, Arthur Manness

Map of each division's placement and the area they liberated

We had a picnic in a field near the marker for Sgt. Alvin York.

A shortage of picnic tables did not stop us!

The Pennsylvania Monument, in the small town of Varennes-en-Argonne, is huge. The town, better known as the village where Louis XVI and Marie Antionette were captured, was liberated by American soldiers. Most of the fighting was completed by the Pennsylvania National Guard/28th Division and, in recognition of their participation in the Great War, the state of Pennsylvania erected this monument in Varennes.

Pennsylvania Monument, Varennes-en-Argonne, France

Close up of Pennsylvania Monument

Pennsylvania suffered the highest casualties/deaths in the war and has the most soldiers buried in Europe. Tour mates Bob and Jacque told us that Boalsburg, Centre County, Pennsylvania has a monument and history center dedicated to the Pennsylvania National Guard’s 28^th Infantry Division.  [Ann, let’s go!]

The Area of the Lost Battalion-- Nine companies of the United States 77^th Division, led by Major Charles Whittlesey, roughly 554 men, were isolated by German forces after an American attack in the Argonne Forest in October 1918. Roughly 197 were killed in action and approximately 150 missing or taken prisoner before the 194 remaining men were rescued.

Dedicated to Cher Ami

Homing pigeons were used for communication. Of course the enemy knew this and shot down the first two sent by the "Lost Battalion." A pigeon named Cher Ami was shot down but managed to fly again, taking the message to Americans describing the battalion's location and pleading to stop the barrage on that location. 

Cher Ami helped save the lives of the 194 survivors. She had been shot through the breast, blinded in one eye, and had a leg hanging only by a tendon. However, the pigeon survived and was sent with honors to the United States.

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With apologies dear reader. It is almost 11 p.m. French time, and we have another 6 a.m. wake up call tomorrow. We are in a really comfortable perfect hotel, but the wifi is dreadfully slow--it takes about 1/2 hour to upload a photo and many minutes to even log on. I will write briefly. 

Life is very different in France, and as Archie said the buildings are very old, and life is not exactly in the fast lane, but it is a pleasure to be here. Our days are very long and very very intense as we walk in the steps of our country men who battled here one hundred years ago.

Restaurants do not open for dinner until 7 p.m., so we stroll nightly to find somewhere to eat. Tonight we ate at L'Esprit Bistrot with John and Linda from Kalamazoo, Michigan. Dinner was superb--quiche Lorraine, right here in the region of Lorraine, a small steak for me, and a small chicken for Tim, salad, and fried potatoes for me, potatoes au gratin for Tim. Excellent. Dessert was ice cream served with fresh fruit. We easily spent over two and half  hours eating and talking. Dining is a very leisurely experience here.  I must prepare to tell Archie's story tonight, the story of November 10, 1918, just hours before the armistice. 

But I have to say that today we were in the  first two phases of the Meuse Argonne Offensive, where Archie and his two nephews Roy, and Lynn all were during those horrible 47 days before the end.   I have so much more to say and very meaningful photos, but all must wait until I have a better Internet connection.  See above! 

OUR DAY ON THE ST. MIHIEL SALIENT, REMEMBERING OUR FAMILY, HONORING WILLIAM HENDERSHOTT

Monday, 13 August 2018

Les Jardins du Mess

Verdun, France

72 F, sunny

One hundred years ago, our countrymen came to France to join the Great War. After brief training, many divisions faced their first big test, the St. Mihiel Offensive in September 1918. Over 500,000 American men and 110,000 French pursued General Pershing’s goal of breaking through the German line to move toward the city of Metz. Despite the constant shelling by the Germans and the air fights, the American attack was successful and served to establish what the American Army could do.

Today we covered the St. Mihiel Salient, the areas that William Hendershott, Arthur Manness, Archie Harvey, Roy Hall, Lynn Price, and Robert Arnold, marched through and fought through, the most horrific battle American forces had ever been in. They pushed through trees, encountered pill boxes, horrific shelling, the explosions, the mud, the smoke, the rubble.

When our bus dropped us off at the Eparges Spur, we saw the remnants of huge mine craters, shell explosions, and trenches. Mike called it a blood soaked battlefield--an area where mines were much used. War had been going on in this area for four years as the Americans came in. It was stunning to see the plain below, the American position.

Remnants of trenches still...

A shell or mine crater-photos do not do them justice because the viewer cannot determine depth

This monument depicts Mother Mary cradling a soldier--another Pieta like pose. Every single village or town in France has at least one statue/monument dedicated to the soldiers of World War I. The art of war.

Our bus continued on as Mike explained each division’s position at St. Mihiel and what happened each day. We learned that George Patton made his name here, the first American use of tanks.  Mike G mentioned there will be a "Patton Day" in September this year in St. Mihiel. We saw "General George Patton Pilsner" beer that is being made in the Czech Republic. I wish I could have purchased a souvenir bottle, but our luggage was already at max!

Mont Sec Monument is one of the most dramatic sites as it sits on one of the highest points in France, a perfect defensive position for the Germans. Today the tall columns can be seen for miles and when one looks out from its platform one can see the grand valley, the sight of such horror in 1918.

Mont Sec Monument

The valley as seen from Mont Sec--in September 1918 over 550,000 Americans and 110,000 French filled this valley. Until the Meuse Argonne Offensive a few weeks later, 

St. Mihiel was considered the laragest battle in U.S. history.

We passed the area of several villages that no longer exist. Other villages and towns were devastated during the war, so the French used the stones to rebuild from the rubble. After the war, Germany was required to pay reparation to rebuild many towns and villages, but not all.


When we reached Euville, Mike had arranged for all of us to have lunch together at Restaurant Le Provencal. Our three course lunch was a petite salad and petite meatloaf-type pate, turkey with mushrooms and creamy potatoes, and cooked julienne carrots, parsnips, and zucchini, with chocolate mousse for dessert. The best meal so far!  We met Mike G and his wife Shannon who are now making their home in France--Mike G is also very knowledgable about the Great War and is considered an American ambassador to St. Mihiel. 

After lunch, we traveled on to St. Mihiel American Cemetery, a beautifully maintained cemetery of 40.5 acres in Thiaucourt, France. The majority of the 4,153 soldiers buried here, as well as the 284 missing in action, died in the St. Mihiel Salient that threatened Paris.

Today we honored both William Hendershott at his gravesite, as well as Arthur Manness. Tim and I felt privileged to do that for the Veterans of Foreign Wars Post #374, named for both of these men from Arcade, New York. Everyone listened as we said a few words of our respect for these men and all of our tour mates, 42 witnessess, shared in a moment of silence and reflection.

The grave of William Hendershott, 78th Division, 303rd Engineer Regiment

St. Mihiel American Cemetery / 2018

William Hendershott's mother in 1932 at the same grave of her son in St. Mihiel American Cemetery

Military Service Veterans Jim C, Tim, Ed M, and Erik K after 

they lowered the flag at St. Mihiel American Cemetery

On the way back to the hotel, tour mate Jim O'D, now a tour guide in San Francisco, gave us a run down on architectural styles of different WW I monuments we have seen. I hope that Jim writes an article about that. For example, the Oise Aisne American Cemetery is in Romanesque style, built in 1919. St. Mihiel American Cemetery is neo-classic. He spoke of the architects and the other work they had done, e.g. one designed the Empire State Building. I am realizing that despite the fact that I took copious notes (87 handwritten pages) during the tour, I did not capture everything.

TK's Takes:

TANKS, COOTIES, CATHEDRALS, AND HARLEM HELL FIGHTERS

Sunday, 12 August 2018

Les Jardins du Mess

Verdun, France

80s F, sunny

Another sunny day in France! We have been so fortunate with the weather. This is the 6^th day of intense touring of sites related to the Great War. Our hotel is the best yet except for Wi-Fi. Baskets of croissants have been available at each hotel so instead of breakfast I take two for the road. Tim has enjoyed the cereal (sort of like Muesli), other breads, and choices of sliced cheese (even Vache Qui Rit), sliced meats, and yogurt. Fresh fruit is always available. Tim says the bacon is not cooked as much as he would like—at each hotel.

Everyone is always on time for the bus departure, which is totally necessary with a group this size. From the beginning, Mike said that the bus horn would be tooted once for all aboard. Twice means the doors are shutting and three toots means, see you later. Understood!

Today we are mostly in the Champagne area of France, around the Marne River.

Tour mate Tim, of Oklahoma, spoke of his grandfather who venerated President Wilson.

The Yankee 26^th Division (New England National Guard) was in this area in January 1918. The division was assigned to reinforce the French on the Chemin des Dames front, near Soissons and the Aisne River. The 12 battalions of the Yankee Division were spread across the front. We stopped at Caverne du Dragon, a limestone quarry made into quarters used by the Germans fifty feet below ground. It was closed on Sunday morning, but fortunately we saw this site in 2015. 

Monument at Caverne de Dragon, honoring the Colonial Senegalese soldiers who fought for France

We were near an area we had seen in 2015, the Plateau de Californie, a good offensive position for the Germans and was a resort area before the war. Old Craonne could be seen in the distance. No matter where we are in this whole area of France, Mike tells us we are in this sector or that sector of fighting. For example, now we are in what is called the Champagne sector. Since we are not exactly going in chronological order, I can get confused as to time and order of battles as we travel.

Plateau de Californie--a superior German position

The Champagne Operation was in July 1918 and the aim was to capture the Romagne and Cunel Heights. The 80^th (Lynn Price) and the 28^th (Roy Hall, Robert Arnold, the Silverthorn Brothers, and Arthur Manness) were in this area and encountered ferocious and dogged resistance and in three days gained only a mile, according to our literature. Mike said that the Champagne area had been a horrible killing ground of the French Army.

World War I technology--the tank

After another lunch at Flunch (love that name—and if this were not such a serious blog I would elaborate on the “Toilettes.” The setup of the one in this Flunch was especially interesting), we visited the Reims Treaty Museum, with the room that the treaty ending World War II was signed. The exhibits in this museum were well done and I was especially interested in the display of World War II uniforms, including the Army Nurse Corps uniform—my mother was a 1^st Lieutenant in the U.S. Army Nurse Corps during WW II.

Museum of the Surrender-Reims, France

Treaty of Reims -- World War II

The entire room enclosed in plexiglass where the Treaty/World War II was signed

The Evening News  London, England

07 May 1945

U.S. Army Nurse Corps uniform

Cathedral of Reims, Reims, France

Other sites we saw or stories we  heard---

Navarin Farm—brutal fighting, multiple burials of thousands of French men who gave their lives for France.

Blanc Mont--where American soldiers fought for 24 hours without food or water; more American casualties than Belleau Wood.

The Choctaw Code Talkers-- It was discovered that the Choctaw Indian soldiers from Oklahoma spoke a language that would confuse the Germans.

The Harlem Hellfighters-- One of our tour mates, Ken of NYC, spoke about the Harlem Hell Fighters (369^th Infantry Regiment) and their valiant efforts in the Great War. We stopped at a memorial for the 93^rd Division, the Harlem Hell Fighters, and Mike told us that the French people from the area visited this memorial after 9-11 to honor the Americans who lost their lives on that day.

Son and father, Steve and Ken, at the monument dedicated to the93rd Division, 369th Infantry Regiment

The Harlem Hellfighters

The French people in the region gathered here after 9-11 in honor of those who perished

We arrived at our hotel in Verdun about 6 p.m. We had pizza at Tour Guide Mike’s favorite restaurant in Verdun, La Toscane, with Mike and Virginia.

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Friends, it is almost midnight and I just finished my prep for the ceremony at St. Mihiel American Cemetery tomorrow on behalf of VFW Post 374 and all of us on the tour, plus preparing for my sharing of Archie's story, so this is short--our last hotel was great and this one in Verdun is super too.  Restaurants open at 7 p.m. and the French eat at a much slower pace (and serve food that way too), so we did not return to the hotel until about 9:30-10 p.m. I wanted my prep printed and discovered that I had to set the paper size at A4 to accommodate French printers. Oh my. I need sleep!

Tim checked out the turnips.

KEYSTONE DIVISION, SECOND BATTLE OF THE MARNE, A WITNESS TO REMEMBRANCE

Saturday, 11 August 2018

Best Western Plus, Hotel des Francs

Soissons, France

70s F, sunny

First, a disclaimer that I should have said before: This blog is really only a draft as I am writing it in the evening after each long day of traveling. Plus, despite the fact that I have read many books on World War I, I am not anywhere near an expert. I am keeping a daily field journal and try to write down ideas, as well as what I see and hear. I may get facts construed for a variety of reasons. I appreciate any corrections or clarifications!

Bright and early at 7:35 a.m. our tour of 39 souls parted for the biggest day yet. Everyone appreciates Virginia and her stories about her dad. As we drove toward our first stop, toward the action of the First Division, Mike Hanlon set the scene and Virginia spoke about how her dad carried his New Testament Bible and scapular with him and kept a diary. She has compiled his diary as I mentioned a few days ago. He wrote of how important carrier pigeons were for communication, as well as how much he appreciated the YMCA, the Red Cross, and the Salvation Army, all entities that supported the American effort during the Great War.

First Division Monument

Her dad spoke of a gruesome night (as they marched toward the engagement), marching for hours in the rain, marching at night, but the advantage was “Fritz could not see us.” The area where we are driving, the Second Battle of the Marne, was where her dad spent five days in intense fighting, cannons blazing away, great was the roar. Rations were carried on their back, but the kitchen brought warm food at night. Virginia’s father survived the war, but suffered from exposure to gas and died young.

These stories of our family members help all of us experience what was going on at the time.

The Second Battle of the Marne (15 July-6 August 1918)

The Second Battle of the Marne was the last major German offensive on the Western Front during the First World War. The attack failed when an Allied counterattack, supported by several hundred tanks, overwhelmed the Germans on their right flank, inflicting severe casualties. The German defeat marked the start of the relentless Allied advance which culminated in the Armistice with Germany about 100 days later.

The Marne River

Aisne-Marne American Cemetery

Missing in Action: 1,060 men. At the Aisne-Marne American Cemetery I was struck by something the superintendent said. He asked us to think of the violence that would create a situation where 1,060 bodies were never found. In 2015 another American Cemetery Superintendent asked us to think of each cross as a man and imagine that amount of men standing before us. At Aisne-Marne there are 2,289 headstones. Over 2000 men standing before me. An overwhelming thought. In the Chapel, the 1060 names are inscribed of the men who are forever missing in action.

On the Monument, overlooking the entrance to Aisne-Marne American Cemetery

Rainbow Division at Croix Rouge Farm and the Ourcq River

Cousins on our tour, Gary and Tracy, along with Jose, are honoring their grandfather Paul who served as an ambulance driver/litter carrier in the 167^th with the 42^nd Division. They spoke of how their grandmother died in 1986 and when the family was cleaning out her home, they found a box. When they opened it, they found their grandfather’s World War I papers, his dog tags, a small 48 star American flag, and other mementos. That was the starting point of their Great War journey. Their story parallels mine, I found a box of Archie’s letters and other artifacts in 1992 when my mother died. We had never spoken of her uncle, who died when she was five years old. That discovery began my journey.

Since Gary only met his grandfather when he was an infant, they had to learn from other family members who remembered Paul as a dearly loved man.

As we approached the monument at Croix Rouge Farm on the Ourcq River, Mike told us more about the Rainbow Division, made up of men from all over the country, hence diverse. Of the 42^nd Division’s part in the Second Battle of the Marne, the Germans called it the greatest artillery barrage in the war at that time. The Allies thought the Germans were going to attack and capture Paris and this was the offensive to stop them, beginning 15 July.  Gary’s grandfather was part of this artillery barrage as an ambulance driver. 

Gary also spoke of how his grandfather had suffered from gas attacks, trench foot, and chilblains. When Grandfather Paul saw the movie The Fighting 69^th in 1939, he got emotional and cried according to a family member who knew him then. They attributed it to his days in France. Paul died in 1953, still suffering from the effects of the gas from the war.

Since their grandfather survived, the family wanted to honor the 42^nd Division, especially those who did not come home. They placed a beautiful bouquet of red roses, red carnations, and red chrysanthemums on the statue. After a moment of silence, another tour member read Rouge Bouquet, a poem written by Joyce Kilmer, also of the 42^nd Division. Just about two weeks later, Kilmer was killed on the battlefield.

Monument dedicated to the 42nd Rainbow Division, Pieta-like in form, 

with the Rouge Bouquet honoring that division

We enjoyed a picnic lunch at Chateau de Fere, a 13^th century castle in ruins, but a lovely view. I cringe to think what would happen in Erie to such an historic ruin.

Tim picnicking at Chateau de Fere

Chateau de Fere with moat

Oise-Marne American Cemetery

John spoke again of his grandfather, Robert Brown, Field Artillery, 32^nd Division, as we were stopping at Oise-Aisne American Cemetery to honor one of Robert’s friends who was killed near him during this same Second Battle of the Marne.  Even though he was in a supply regiment, he and his unit were subjected to artillery. Robert’s friends were 500 yards away from him, and one was killed by heavy artillery, Harry LaBar. Later John talked about how his grandfather and others had to march five days to Chateau Thierry, pulling the caissons themselves, because they needed to spare the animals.

John and his wife Linda placed a beautiful bouquet of red gladiolus, and blue and white flowers at the grave of Harry LaBar. Again, another tour mate read an anonymous poem about saying goodbye to a friend who died at war.  I was honored to witness both ceremonies today.

Entrance to Oise-Aisne American Cemetery

Floral bouquet honoring Harry LaBar, 32nd Division

Charles J. Hoffsess, Pennsylvania 28th Division, 112th Infantry Regiment, 

we honor you and your fallen comrades

Many soldiers from the Pennsylvania 28^th Keystone Division are buried in this cemetery, including those from the 112^th Infantry Regiment. If they had not been repatriated, Russell Ward Silverthorn, Robert F. Arnold, and Arthur Manness would have been buried here. For Ann S, for Sandra F, for VFW Post #374 and Carole J.

Quentin Roosevelt Crash Site

A brief stop—Quentin Roosevelt, one of the sons of Theodore Roosevelt, was   killed in aerial combat not far from the fountain monument.

Fountain honoring Quentin Roosevelt, son of Theodore Roosevelt

Coastal Artillery Command

An interesting side note to today’s 2^nd Battle of the Marne Tour was tour mate Genevieve’s story about her father (b. 1892) who was a Boston Fusilier who guarded the Boston Harbor with artillery. His unit was activated and sent to France. That year the Boston harbor had frozen over and equipment had to be slid over the ice. The unit, Coastal Artillery Command, shipped out on the Mauritania in 1918. The Bostonians, skilled at using big artillery guns, were not accustomed to the French ways, so the “CAC” became the “Clean All Cities” unit in France. Besides cleaning up cities to their specs, they trained on 75s. She remembered that he sang World War I songs to her, including “Mademoiselle from Armentieres,” and that he talked about cooties. She found out that when he returned to NYC, his unit was deloused 9-10 times before going home. He then went to bed for six months. Later, her father was the Sanitation Inspector for the City of Boston.

Her husband, Anson, spoke of his grandfather Ira who was in the National Guard from Rhode Island. Ira was training for combat in France when he had the mumps, causing hime to miss the ship. He was never able to catch up with his unit before the war ended. This family served in World War II, the Korean War, and Vietnam. 

As we were driving over hills and valleys, Donna spoke of her grandfather Perry Foote from Minnesota who was sent to the 77th  Division, 304th Field Artillery made up of mostly New York City boys. Because Perry and his country buddies could handle horses, they were ordered to the 77th Division. Donna said her grandfather was always grateful to the Salvation Army and their support of the men at the front. After the war, he bought a touring car and moved his family to the state of Washington. His sons served in World War II.

Pennsylvania Bridge at Fismes
One of today's special highlights was stopping at the Pennsylvania Bridge in Fismes. This site was very important to me because on our AEF tour in 2015 I knew my Uncle Roy was in the 112^th Infantry, but for some reason I had not figured out that was in the 28^th Division. Now I have read several books on the regiment and the division and my brother even gave me Uncle Roy’s doughboy helmet. Now I know more family members of others in the 112^th.

I am so glad we stopped in Fismes, a small commune in the Marne department in the Champagne-Ardennes region of northeastern France. It is crossed by the Vesle River and linked to the hamlet of Fismette by a memorial bridge that commemorates the sacrifices made by the soldiers of the 28th Infantry Division (Keystone) who fought to liberate the region during the First World War.

According to sources, the banks of the Vesle were the new front: on the north were the German forces and to the south was the American 3rd Corps, which had relieved the 1st Army Corps. The first two days of the battle, the 32nd American Division lost 2,000 men in its efforts to cross the Vesle River and reach Fismes. This Division was relieved by the 28th Infantry Division,   which would come to be known as the Bloody Bucket Division. For a month, from August to September, 1918, the battle would continue in the areas surrounding Fismes and Fismette. 

I remember my dear Uncle Roy Hall suffered from shrapnel in his life all of his life. He did not let that stop him from living a full life. Always warm and caring, treasured his roses and showed them to all who passed by. Uncle Roy, I remember.

Uncle Roy Hall, back from the war. 

He is holding my mother, Alma Florence Hall, born 10 April 1919. When she was born, the family named her Mary Jane, even though the family had told Roy he could name her. 

When he returned, her name was changed!  How I wish I could ask him about this!

Direction sign in the vicinity

Fismes in the background--note the terrain

The Pennsylvania Bridge, built to honor the 28th Division at Fismes/Fismette

The Battle of Fismes and Fismette is unique in the history of World War I because of the extreme violence and street fighting that occurred, as well as the presence of storm trooper attacks and flame throwers. All of this culminated in the total destruction of Fismes (around 90%), more than in the neighboring Reims. Over the course of just a month, Fismes would be lost and won again five times by the Allied forces.

In the month of August, the quarter of Fismette was lost and recaptured 5 times by the enemy.

Friendship between Fismes, France and Meadville, Pennsylvania

Meadville is 36 miles south of Erie.

Vesle River

This was another emotional day.

TK’s Takes: Today he noticed a wild boar in one of the fields we passed.