THE FORGOTTEN BATTLE OF JUVIGNY, PEACE AT COMPIEGNE, AND MARINES AT BELLEAU WOOD

Friday, 10 August 2018

Best Western Plus, Hotel des Francs

Soissons, France

As we departed the hotel, Mike introduced our first tour mate speaker for the morning. John of Kalamazoo, Michigan, spoke of his grandfather, Robert, who attended a patriotic rally with his friends and they all enlisted. He served with a rolling kitchen, ration detail, fed and tended horses and mules, had guard duty, burial detail, among other duties. He served in the 32^nd Red Arrow Division as a supply soldier/119^th Field Artillery. I was fortunate enough to look at the book that John prepared for his family based on his grandfather’s letters and diary. Grandfather Robert was sent to the front with virtually no training. He was sent on a four day march, almost 90 miles, to assist the French in a flank attack in August 1918.

Our bus was in the area of Juvigny, near the Juvigny Plateau. In 1918 the Germans occupied the village, the hill, and the railroad. Pershing sent the 32^nd Division in as shock troops to storm through German defenses so that the effort to drive the Germans out of France could be accomplished. The artillery unit suffered fire from the best enemy division but were told to hold the line at all cost.

Robert wrote of how in September two of his friends, 50 yards from his position, were killed by heavy shell bombardment. He mourned the loss of his friends throughout his life.  Robert became a graphic artist and sign painter-he died in 1962.

Robert’s diary mentioned the “Christmas Box” and making a ring. I have written Archie’s Christmas Box story, and I have the ring that I presume Archie made while in service in France. In fact, I wore it on this trip.

Another speaker was Mike V, of Texas, whose grandfather, also in the 32^nd Division, was gassed during the war and received a Purple Heart. Mike said that his grandfather became a government trapper in South Dakota and New Mexico and died in 1944, when Mike’s father was in Saipan during World War II and was not able to return home for the funeral.

Chateau de Blerancourt

We stopped at Chateau de Blerancourt, headquarters for Ann Morgan after the war. Daughter of J.P. Morgan, she vowed to help with restoring France. This French national museum celebrates French- American friendship. The castle is restored and can boast beautiful gardens. Originally built for Marie de Medici, wife of King Henry IV, during the 1600s, Ann Morgan restored it and used it for the headquarters and later a museum. Tim bought me a beautiful Limoges ring on which a poppy is painted. I am so glad that we are seeing gift shops on this trip!

A view of Blerancourt-a moat surrounds the castle

"Go to it, Boys, I'm on my way," by Lucien Hector Jonas. 1917. 

Two French and one English soldier, exhausted. The Statue of Liberty 

symbolizes that America now takes up the flag and the fight for democracy and liberty.

A field ambulance

A stretcher--I wonder if it is like the one Archie used to carry his severely wounded officer 

from the battle area

Compiegne Armistice Glade

This is one of the best small museums I have ever seen and houses the rail car where the World War I Armistice was signed, sort of [explanation later]. Compiegne is busy preparing for the 100^th Anniversary of the Armistice and a lot of work was being done on the grounds. The first thing we saw was a room filled with stereoscopes viewing stations for looking at very moving images of the Great War, battles, trenches, destroyed churches, the Verdun 300 day battle, all leaving no doubt of the hardship of living in the trenches and the destruction of villages, their homes, churches, bridges, ruins, devastation, grim faces. There were scenes of dead soldiers, dead horses, the wounded. Destruction. The 3D effect tripled the feeling of seeing the horror, I cannot unsee the images.

The original rail car, a replacement, since the original was confiscated by the Germans and taken to Berlin in 1940, was a highlight. Wagon-lit offered a rail car almost identical to the original after the end of World War II, since the original car caught fire accidentally when prisoners liberated from a concentration camp started a fire nearby to keep warm and the fire spread.  Everyone agreed that this was a super stop.

Sign indicating our arrival at the Compiegne Armistice Glade

Explanation of the Armistice rail car

The German eagle impaled-- a monument near the Armistice museum created after the Great War to commemorate the heroic soldiers of France who defended their country and liberated Alsace and Lorraine.

When the Germans attacked France and occupied the country, they destroyed the original monument. 

After World War II, this monument was rebuilt.

As our bus rolls along, I can feel the group grow even more cohesive as we share a phenomenal experience. At this moment in time we are immersed in the Great War and our family connections.  I did not need to go to France to make new discoveries every day, but this trip totally enriches our experience.

After lunch at Boulangerie Marie Blachere, a ham and cheese sandwich on delicious bread and a brownie for Tim, we headed toward Chateau Thierry to focus on the 2^nd and 3^rd Divisions and the action on the Marne River from late May to mid-July 1918.

As we travel through the area of the Battle of Chateau Thierry, we learned that it was fought on July 18, 1918 and was one of the first actions of the American Expeditionary Forces (AEF) under General Pershing. It was a battle in World War I as part of the Second Battle of the Marne, initially prompted by a German offensive launched on 15 July against the AEF, an expeditionary force consisting of troops from both the Army and Marine Corps, and the newest troops on the front.

On the morning of 18 July 1918, the French (some of them colonial) and  American forces between Fontenoy and Chateau Thierry launched a counter-assault under the overall direction of Allied General Foch against the German positions. This assault on a 25-mile-wide front was the first in over a year. The American army played a role fighting for the regions around Soissons and Château-Thierry, in collaboration with predominantly French forces. The allied forces had managed to keep their plans a secret, and their attack at 04:45 took the Germans by surprise when the troops went "Over the Top" without a preparatory artillery bombardment, but instead followed closely behind a rolling barrage which began with great synchronized precision. Eventually, the two opposing assaults (lines) inter-penetrated and individual American units exercised initiative and continued fighting despite being nominally behind enemy lines.

Monument to the U.S. Army's 3rd Infantry Division

Each day we pass a couple German cemeteries. Young German men vist the cemeteries to take care of them.

Marne River

The Marne is a river in France, an eastern tributary of the Seine in the area east and southeast of Paris. It is 319 miles long. The river gave its name to the departments of Haute-Marne, Marne, Seine-et-Marne, and Val-de-Marne.  The geography of France does remind me of the terrain of Pennsylvania, although Pennsylvania has more trees and more rolling hills. Farmland abounds in the areas we are traveling from west of Paris to the Lorraine region adjacent to Germany. Large rivers we have seen or will see include the Seine, Marne, Ourcq, Meuse, and Moselle, and more!

Belleau Wood and the American Marines (1–26 June 1918)

Our bus circled the entire Belleau Wood Battlefield area where the United States forces suffered 9,777 casualties, included 1,811 killed. Many are buried in the nearby Aisne Marne American Cemetery.

After the battle, the French renamed the wood "Bois de la Brigade de Marine" ("Wood of the Marine Brigade") in honor of the Marines' tenacity. The French government also later awarded the 4th Brigade the Croix de Guerre. An official German report classified the Marines as "vigorous, self-confident, and remarkable marksmen ..." General Pershing—commander of the AEF—said, "The deadliest weapon in the world is a United States Marine and his rifle." Pershing also said "the Battle of Belleau Wood was for the U.S. the biggest battle since Appomatox and the most considerable engagement American troops had ever had with a foreign enemy."

Hunting Lodge today

We visited the hunting lodge ruins at Belleau Wood and saw the open air artillery exhibit. 

Some of the artillery on display

A church across from the Aisne Marne American Cemetery was destroyed but rebuilt after the war in a new location by the 26^th Marines. Stained glass windows depict doughboys and there are lists of all men killed in World Wars I and II from the 26^th Marines.

Stained glass windows

Some names of the 26th Marines killed in war

The Devil Dog Fountain is across the road from the church – legend has it that if a Marine drinks from this fountain, he has a long life. Of course, we all drank from this fountain.

U.S. Navy veteran, Tim, and the Devil Dog Fountain

Tour mate Robin of Cleveland spoke of his grandfather, a Marine who served from 1918 to 1922. He was rushed to the front on June 21^st, camped in the woods, and marched all night and day to Soissons. However, he “fell out” and did not make it to the battle. After Soissons, he was a stretcher bearer.

Tour mate Bob from Georgia spoke of his great uncle who was a Marine during World War I, too.

Aisne Marne Memorial

Map etched on the opposite side of the memorial--the U.S. Army 28th Division was 

 part of the war here-note Fismes-Fismette

As a side note, Adolf Hitler, the future Fuhrer of Nazi Germany, earned and was awarded the Iron Cross First Class at Soissons on August 4, 1918.

TK’s Takes: He noticed a male ring neck pheasant in field.

GOODBYE BELGIUM, HELLO SOMME

Thursday, 9 August 2018

Best Western Plus, Hotel des Francs (https://www.bestwestern.fr/fr/hotel-Soissons-Best-Western-Hotel-des-Francs-93707)

Soissons, France

65F, rainy

Traveling the French countryside by bus is quite pleasant, the fields corn, wheat, rutabaga, squash, milk cows and beef cows grazing contentedly in their pastures, the horses, mules, along the way. A woods here and there, clumps of trees. Today it is hard to imagine the peaceful countryside full of soldiers and supply teams, the sounds of shelling, and bullets firing. But when we saw two American cemeteries today, reality awakens us to the fact that Belgium and France were fields of fallen men, our country men who did not return home.

Flanders Field American Cemetery in Waregem, Belgium is nearly the smallest of all, with 368 headstones. Row upon row of Latin crosses or Star of David in Carrera marble, plus 21 unknown only to God, and 43 MIA.  Lt. Kenneth MacLeish is buried here, brother of Captain Archibald MacLeish, who became one of America’s Poets Laureate. One member of our tour read one of his poems, “The Young Dead Soldiers Do Not Speak.” The last lines:

“They say: Whether our lives and our deaths were for 
peace and a new hope or for nothing we cannot say, 
it is you who must say this. 

“We leave you our deaths. Give them their meaning. 
We were young, they say. We have died; remember us.”   Archibald MacLeish

The Superintendent of the cemetery told us that he and others there have researched the men buried at Flanders Field, and many were immigrants, new to America and signed up for the military soon after the declaration of war. He spoke of one man whose Polish family visits his grave still today, usually Memorial Day. Other things he said that stuck with me is that they average a few families per year visiting the cemetery. However, the townspeople have adopted every grave and bring flowers regularly and attend ceremonies at least twice a year. That is very touching. It reminded me how important it is for me to honor William Hendershott at St. Mihiel.

The gate to Flanders Field American Cemetery

According to materials, Flanders Field American Cemetery and Memorial  were designed by architect Paul Cret. This is the only American World War I cemetery in Belgium. Many men buried here fell at Spitaals Bosschen, an action of the Ypres-Lys Campaign by the 91st Infantry Division in the closing days of World War I.

Administered by the American Battle Monuments Commission(ABMC), The Flanders Field cemetery is in the area known as Flanders Fields, where fierce fighting took place throughout the war. Canadian war poet Lieutenant Colonel John McCrae wrote the poem In Flanders Fields  on 3 May 1915, after witnessing the death of his friend, Lieutenant Alexis Helmer, the day before. 

Charles Lindbergh flew over the Flanders Field American Cemetery and Memorial on 30 May 1927, just nine days after his historic May 20–21 trans-Atlantic crossing.

Chapel at Flanders Field Cemetery

IN FLANDERS FIELDS POEM
The World’s Most Famous WAR MEMORIAL POEM
By Lieutenant Colonel John McCrae

In Flanders fields the poppies blow
Between the crosses, row on row,
That mark our place: and in the sky
The larks still bravely singing fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below.

We are the dead: Short days ago,
We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
Loved and were loved: and now we lie
In Flanders fields!

Take up our quarrel with the foe
To you, from failing hands, we throw
The torch: be yours to hold it high
If ye break faith with us who die,
We shall not sleep, though poppies grow
In Flanders fields

Composed at the battlefront on May 3, 1915
during the second battle of Ypres, Belgium

“On May 2, 1915, John McCrae’s close friend and former student Alexis Helmer was killed by a German shell. That evening, in the absence of a Chaplain, John McCrae recited from memory a few passages from the Church of England’s “Order of the Burial of the Dead”. For security reasons Helmer’s burial in Essex Farm Cemetery was performed in complete darkness.

“The next day, May 3, 1915, Sergeant-Major Cyril Allinson was delivering mail. McCrae was sitting at the back of an ambulance parked near the dressing station beside the Yser Canal, just a few hundred yards north of Ypres, Belgium.

“As John McCrae was writing this poem, Allison silently watched and later recalled, “His face was very tired but calm as he wrote. He looked around from time to time, his eyes straying to Helmer’s grave.” Within moments, McCrae had completed the poem and when he was done, without a word handed the poem to Allinson. ‘The poem was an exact description of the scene in front of both of us. He used the word blow in that line because the poppies were actually being blown that morning by a gentle east wind. It never occurred to me at the time that it would ever be published. It seemed to me just an exact description of the scene.’”  http://www.flandersfieldsmusic.com/thepoem.html

Plunch
We had lunch at Plunch, a combination of fast food and a buffet. This restaurant has not perfected "fast" yet. By the time I  got my burger (sorry my gourmet friends), almost everyone was done eating. I like the name though. Tim had small slices of meats and cheese--une assiette charcuterie.

St. Quentin Tunnel

For an athletic workout we stopped at St. Quentin Tunnel--a canal system where the Germans hid in a tunnel (I am not vying for a Pulitzer here). Almost everyone walked down the steep path to the canal--we were able to peek inside. During the war it made a good hideout, but a poor defensive position if soldiers were above.

View from the top of the canal--

The St. Quentin Tunnel

 

The Somme American Cemetery with fourteen acres of beautifully cared for grounds with 1,884 graves, is located in Bony, Aise, France. Helen Fairchild is buried here. She was an American combat nurse who volunteered for front line duty--exposed to heavy shelling including the use of mustard gas, she died of complications from gastric surgery.  

The grave of  Helen Fairchild--I especially honor her story as my mother, Alma F. Hall Phillips was a  1st Lieutenant in the Army Nurse Corps during World War II, serving stateside.

Chapel at Somme Cemetery

Today we experienced a very rainy afternoon, but we accomplished a lot between raindrops. Lunch at Plunch in Lille was interesting but I am probably not going to give it rave reviews. Today was much cooler, but that steep brisk walk to the canal tunnel warmed me up. A nearby pillbox showed another American advantage.

Both Flanders Field and Somme American Cemeteries were stark reminders of the loss of American lives. And St. Mihiel and Meuse Argonne are yet to come.

FROM PARIS TO YPRES, BELGIUM—MADEMOISELLE FROM ARMENTIERES AND THE CHRISTMAS TRUCE

Wednesday, 8 August 2015

New Regina Hotel, Ypres, Belgium

Flanders Fields, Belgium

72F, partly cloudy

Come with me on a ride to Ypres! Our skillful bus captain took us onto the highway early this morning through rolling hills and fields of wheat, corn, and rutabaga. Sleepy, quiet villages passed us by. One of the first things I noticed was Rue du 8 Aout 1918, which translates to “August 8, 1918 Street” in one of the small villages. I was paying special attention because today is our dear daughter in law’s birthday—her date has a street! That was the date that this small town, Harbonnieres, had liberation in sight. In fact, today was a big day all of over parts of France and Belgium. The war was not over, but the Germans were being pushed back.

Rue du 8 Aout 1918--Rue is the French word for street and Aout is August

Mike Hanlon briefed us on the basics of World War I before the American involvement in 1918.

Most of our day was spent visiting the AEF in the Somme/Cantigny/In Flanders Fields area.

One of our tour mates, Virginia, started speaking of her father, Charles Dilkes, an engineer with the First Division who kept a daily diary. Since that was not permitted, he buried it before his engagement in work before the battles and would retrieve it after. Virginia and her family edited the diary, after he passed away. The book was endorsed by the World War I Centennial Commission. https://www.amazon.com/Remembering-World-War-Engineers-Diary/dp/0692028617

More First Division, Pershing’s Favorite

Cantigny—1^st Division April 27-July 8, 1918

The Battle of Cantigny, fought May 28, 1918 was the first major American battle and offensive of  World War I.  The U.S. 1st Division, the most experienced of the five American divisions then in France and in reserve for the French Army near the village of Cantigny, was selected for the attack. The objective of the attack was both to reduce a small salient made by the German Army in the front lines but also to instill confidence among the French and British allies in the ability of the inexperienced American Expeditionary Forces (AEF).

Rue 1st Division U.S.A.

The Battle of Hamel (4 July 1918)

From there we went to the site of the Battle of Hamel—33^rd Division July 4, 1918

This was a successful attack by Australian and U.S. infantry, supported by British tanks, against German positions in and around the town of  Le Hamel, in northern France, during World War I. The attack was planned and commanded by the commander of the Australian Corps. Believe it or not, poppies grew in the rutabaga field nearby.

Hamel was the first time during World War I that elements of the AEF were commanded operationally by non-American officers.

Brother and sister Frank and Cindy spoke of their  grandfather, who was an MP in the 33rd Division. This Division was decorated by King George at a Chateau, Molliens-au-Bois on August 12, 1918. General Pershing was in attendance. We stopped at this private chateau in remembrance, but despite prearrangements, we could not get in.  

Most of us enjoyed lunch at a boulangerie, sandwicherie, tarterie called Marie Blachere--great sandwiches and wraps. Tim had a ham and cheese wrap and together we shared a raspberry tarte--very very fresh.

For an afternoon break, we stopped at McDonald's in Armentieres in northern France. I played a few verses of the song, "Mademoiselle from Armentieres" on my phone for our tour mates, but if one does a search, one might find some R rated verses.  It was fun being at that spot!

By about 4 p.m. we stopped at Mont Kemmel, Flanders—and monuments to the 27^th and 30^th Divisions. We had never been in Belgium before and the transition was smooth except for the language.  Flanders is the Dutch-speaking northern portion of  Belgium. People from this area are called either Fleming or Flemish. The official capital of Flanders is Brussels. Flanders is like a county.

As the literature says, the Flanders Field Museum honors the more than 600,000 dead who fell here. Flanders (and Belgium as a whole) saw some of the greatest loss of life on the  Western Front of the war, in particular from the three battles of Ypres.

We also stopped by the site of the Christmas Truce--on Christmas Eve 1915, the British soldiers heard the Germans singing Christmas Carols and met in the open. On Christmas Day they continued fraternizing and even exchanged gifts. Several German soldiers did not participate, including Adolph Hitler. By Christmas 1916, there was no fraternizing of course.

Display of American World War I gear, uniform

This photo provides an idea of the devastation in villages--Ypres (Ieper in Belgian) was in shambles.

After I visited the museum gift shop, we checked into our hotel and ate at Ypres Burgers. Really.

We arrived early to get a good spot for the  Last Post Ceremony. Menin Gate is a war memorial in dedicated to the British and Commonwealth soldiers who were killed in the Ypres Salient of World War I and whose graves are unknown. The ceremony was very touching and meaningful.

These wreaths represent hundreds and hundreds of British Legions (something like our American Legions) who were in Ieper today for the Last Post Ceremony--commemorating 8 August 1918.

During the "Last Post Ceremony." To get a good spot for a photo we stood here for an hour, BUT I had to reach out beyond the other photographers and keep the camera straight--well, not so straight

TK's Takes: He noticed a lot of windmills-wind turbines.

COUNTDOWN TO OUR AEF WORLD WAR I TOUR

Tuesday, 7 August 2018

Golden Tulip Hotel/CDG (http://www.goldentulipcdgvillepinte.com/)

Paris, France (Roissy)

97F, sunny.

Golden Tulip Hotel--convenient to CDG Airport, about an hour from Paris- 

but accessible by train and taxi, free shuttles to CDG and Aeroville

Based on the news report this morning on TV, France is really suffering from the heat wave. They are especially concerned with ozone levels.   Four nuclear reactors were forced to close in order to avoid raising the temperature of rivers whose water is used for cooling and then returned. It is very dry in Paris and Roissy—the flowers and trees are in stress.

This morning we set off for Aeroville Mall again—what a difference being free of jet lag! It is a very nice mall and we bought some items, e.g. 3 microfiber cloths—I meant to bring wash/face cloths as the French don’t seem to use them. I also forgot my travel alarm, but Tim remembered both wash cloths and his alarm.

The Welcome Debriefing and Dinner were great. There are 38 on the tour, plus Desiree, tour manager, and Hans, our bus captain, both from Holland. I had forgotten Mike’s (our tour guide) sense of humor. He said it is a jam packed tour—that he did not realize he would ever be quoting Josef Stalin, but “Quantity has a quality all its own.” 

At least a third of us have traveled with Mike before and most have a WWI connection—it is great to be in the company of so many kindred spirits.

Note to Friend Carol of Arcade: Mike said that we can make arrangements to lay a wreath at any of the American cemeteries. Now the protocol is that he tells the cemetery personnel we want to do that and they provide a wreath to my specifications. I am so honored to be able to do this for William Hendershott, 78^th Infantry Division/303^rd Engineer Regiment/Co. D.

Note to Friend Carol of Arcade: Mike said that we can make arrangements to lay a wreath at any of the American cemeteries. Now the protocol is that he tells the cemetery personnel we want to do that and they provide a wreath to my specifications. I am so honored to be able to do this for William Hendershott, 78^th Infantry Division/303^rd Engineer Regiment/Co. D.

TK’s Take: There were magpies in the park.

Pour notre amie, Judy P: Nous avons achete des croissants and La Vache Qui Rit, pour le bon vieux temps. Nous nous sommes assis dans un parc pour dejeuner ! Souviens-toi, Judy ???

Mayor's Office and Park nearby/Janie

MONA LISA SMILED AT ME!

Monday, 7 August 2018

Golden Tulip Hotel/CDG (http://www.goldentulipcdgvillepinte.com/)

Paris, France (Roissy)

95F, sunny

What an adventure today at the Louvre! So many people, so much heat! It took us a bit to figure out the system of where to go inside and how to get there, at what has to be one of the busiest art museums in the world. According to statistics I read, the Louvre had 8.1 million visitors in 2017, which would average over 22,000 a day. No wonder it was crowded! Good thing Tim did not know about that beforehand. Thankfully I had ordered tickets online so we did not have to wait to go to the first area, Western European art from the 1400s-1800s.

There was no signage about taking photos and nearly everyone had a camera/phone/iPad and all were taking photos by the hundreds. There was not even a sign that said no flash allowed, but I did not use a flash for any of my photos. I checked the museum’s use of one’s own photography and it seems that I may post a photos that I took myself of art in the main exhibit areas. 

Since it is already 10 p.m. tonight, I better get to business with the photos. As a side note, we saw Mike Hanlon this morning, our tour guide. He is going to help me with plans (if it works out) to honor William Hendershott at the St. Mihiel American Cemetery where he is buried. The VFW in Arcade, New York, is named after him and Arthur Manness, who was also killed in France.

Leonardo DaVinci's Mona Lisa. To get this photo I had to wait in line, get shoved around, but I was able to take two photos, one with my DSLR and one with my cell phone! I told Tim that I doubted anyone would give me my own private tour of the Louvre so I might as well make the best of  it! Fifty years ago, the last time I was at the Louvre, I didn't even have a camera!

The crowd in another room in the Louvre

Winged Victory of Samothrace, the first "objet d'art" that I saw in the Louvre in 1968. Hellenistic sculpture of the Goddess Nike c. 200-190 BC.

Wilting Janie with Winged Victory-Inside the "Pyramid" at the Louvre

Inside the "Pyramid" at the Louvre

The "Pyramid" -- photo taken from window inside the Louvre

Tim studying Flemish,  Fishmarket,  by painter Frans Snyder, Flemish painter, 1579-1657

Napoleon's Apartments--the dining room. There was seating for about 48 people.

After enjoying the Louvre for many hours, we had dinner at Au Bon Couscous. Contrary to what I said yeterday, it was just too tempting to have a dish, couscous poulet (an Algerian dish)

that I loved so much when I went to school in Aix en Provence.

After the Louvre, we went on another bus ride and I spotted this 

World War I monument near the Eiffel Tower.

TK’s Takes: The RER transit system needs ventilation—it was boiling as we traveled both to Paris, and back to Roissy. The bacon at the breakfast buffet is the best he has ever had, very thick and very tasty. He also noted a mouse in the rail track, reminiscent of his noticing a rat in the NYC metro last year. Why is he even looking for that? He had more thoughts, but Janie did not write them down for him……

Note to B1 and B2: I was able to get something for both of you today!! See if you can figure it out from this photo!!

HEAT WAVE IN FRANCE!

Sunday, 5 August 2018

Golden Tulip Hotel/CDG (http://www.goldentulipcdgvillepinte.com/)

Paris, France (Roissy)

95F, sunny

Come with us on a day in Paris. First, we learned a new word this morning on the news, la canicule—heat wave! It is about 93 to 95F today, but tolerable because the humidity is low and there was a nice breeze. I am so grateful that Tim has a great sense of direction—he found a better way to get to Paris on the RER (stands for Réseau Express Régional, the suburban commuter/rapid transit system) from the CDG airport. We did not even need to take the Metro—the RER delivered us to the area of the Louvre/Notre Dame Cathedrale.

After my research, we determined that the Big Bus was just as easy as and more reasonably priced than anything else. For 90 euros total, we got a two day pass on both of their hop on hop off lines as well as an hour boat ride on the Seine. We definitely recommend this way of getting a great overview of Paris, with stops at all of the most popular sites.  

Near the Eiffel Tower we boarded their boat for a one hour guided ride on the Seine River. This was something Tim especially wanted to do, and we enjoyed Paris from a new perspective.

This is the same as the boat we were on

Cathedrale de Notre Dame 

Tim and the Eiffel Tower

Closeup of Eiffel Tower

I especially liked this view of the Eiffel Tower. 

I need to hold my camera straight!

We resumed our bus ride and took the other route to the Montmartre area.  

A ferris wheel in Paris!

The Vendome Column was commissioned by Napoleon to commemorate his victory at Austerlitz. Made of stone, it is covered in bronze, made from the cannons captured from the enemy at the Battle of Austerlitz. Who was the enemy (1805-1811)? The Battle of the Three Emperors—Naploeon vs. the Russian Tsar Alexander I and the Holy Roman Emperor Francis II.  

Close up of Vendome Column

I guess "To the victor belongs the spoils," as said by New York Senator William L. Marcy, referring to the victory of Andrew Jackson in the election of 1828.

Moulin Rouge-the famous caberet in Paris-best known as the birthplace

 of the modern form of the can-can dance

This is where we had dinner-fabulous and fries. We won't be getting 

creative with French food this trip.

TK’s Takes: He noticed many, many men with a “Man Purse.” He is becoming especially attached to his. Note to Janie’s brother Bill: There was pure maple syrup available for pancakes at the breakfast this morning. Tomorrow we will determine its origin.